I chased the Northern Lights on Hurtigrutren's 12 day Bergen-Kirkenes-Bergen voyage, 18 Feb-1 Mar 2015. What a great trip! The ship is beautiful; my deck 3 N class cabin was both functional and comfortable, the food was excellent, as were the staff. The excursions were efficiently run and enjoyable - the Tromso Arctic Cathedral concert was a highlight, as was the Kirkenes husky sledge ride. Plenty of opportunity to explore alone on the longer of the many port stops. My only criticisms are the lack of information on arrival at the Bergen Hurti Terminal and the lack of table water at lunch and dinner, which pressurises customers to buy the expensive bottled water. I didn't, on principle, as the availability of water at meals should be a given - there's plenty of really cold, potable water from the cabin shower room, however. Read up on Hurtigruten before booking, as this is not a traditional cruise - but it is a wonderful experience, especially if the Lights appear, as they did on two nights running for us.